Memo: Why Nike Needs Air

The year was 1984, and Nike needed a change.

Now a corporation with revenues that exceed the GDP of all but 80 or so of the world’s countries, Nike nearly 39 years ago executed one of the most important business decisions in history. On October 26, 1984, Michael Jordan agreed to a partnership that would alter the sports business for an entire generation. There is something sort of Orwellian about this year, when a shoe brand with $919 million in sales became one of the most powerful corporations on earth. To accomplish this, they signed an unproven NBA rookie to a contract format that had yet to exist in sports.

A New York Times report, eight long months after Jordan’s signing, detailed the company’s distress. It would snap out of it in two years’ time with the help of the NBA rookie.

Nike’s earnings declined 29 percent in the fiscal year 1984, the first drop in 10 years. ”Orwell was right: 1984 was a tough year,” Philip H. Knight, Nike’s co-founder, chairman and chief executive, said in the company’s annual report. Yet 1985 is even tougher. In its two most recent quarters Nike had its first losses ever.

Today, Nike isn’t just a shoe and apparel manufacturer. Its advertising and public relations strategies contribute to the national consensus. The company’s impact extends far beyond sport; it has reached the stratosphere of culture, economics, and even politics. It’s as much a part of the fabric of America as the flag’s fibers themselves.

The year is 2023. And Nike is still more recognizable than the names of many American presidents. But there’s been a seismic shift.

1985: Michael Jordan vs. 2023: Tiffany x Nike Capsule

While sports has never been bigger as a business, it requires more investment by corporations like Nike to match the influence that it once maintained. Today, a Nike swoosh or Michael Jordan logo is on every MLB, NBA, and NFL uniform and countless more within the NCAA’s ecosystem.

The decline in the influence of professional athletes and the waning of Nike’s share of that influence are two interrelated phenomena. When Lebron James broke the all-time NBA scoring record, it should have moved the sales needle for Nike. Instead, his participation in the promotion of Nike’s Tiffany collaboration was more likely to pay dividends than a special “scoring title” edition of Lebron’s shoes. He’s the company’s highest-profile (active) star athlete. But it was just another passing moment; Phil Knight sat on the sideline looking morose and bored by the spectacle before him. He’d seen a lifetime of those moments and they’ve lost relevance over the decades. In fact, he all but created the economy for moments-turned-advertisement. In Nike and Omniversal Brand, I explained:

To many, Michael Jordan is Nike’s greatest athlete. To others, it’s Kobe Bean Bryant, Cristiano Ronaldo, Tiger Woods, or Serena Williams. For me, it’s Steve Prefontaine. Nike’s first athlete set the stage for decades of the brand’s rebellious and counterintuitive thinking. The spirit of Pre lives on.

So let’s explore how the decline of athletes’ influence and Nike’s waning influence are connected and what factors have contributed to these changes.

Founded in 1964 as Blue Ribbon Sports, Nike was inventive from the beginning. Over the years, it’s become one of the biggest and most recognizable brands in the world. However, in recent years, the company has faced declining influence and has struggled to maintain its position as a leader in the athletic apparel industry.

One of the biggest factors contributing to that decline of Nike’s influence is increasing competition from enterprise brands and direct-to-consumer brands, alike. In recent years, new and innovative athletic apparel companies have emerged, offering consumers a wider range of choices and forcing Nike to adapt to changing market demands.

Companies such as Under Armour, Adidas, and Puma have all made significant gains in market share, challenging Nike’s dominance in the industry. These companies have been able to offer consumers high-quality products at more affordable prices. Nike’s response has been to move further up market, leaving the average consumer behind. Additionally, the increasing popularity of athleisure brands like Lululemon has also had an impact on Nike’s influence. But each of the aforementioned still struggle with a similar problem: professional athletes are less of the attention equation than they were just a decade prior.

With the rise of social media, the rise of the commercially-viable musician, and the increasing number of athletes, it has become much easier for talented (and untalented) individuals to become celebrities and gain a large following. This has resulted in a saturation of the market, making it more difficult for individual athletes to stand out and maintain their influence. As momentum has shifted away from athlete influence, their efficacy of has waned. Look no further than the current struggles at Adidas:

The company’s messy split last year with the musician Kanye West, which could knock about €1.2 billion off full-year sales, and €500 million off its operating profit — an even greater loss than Adidas had calculated just four months ago. (NYT)

This explanation would have been unfathomable when Jordan still played. A rapper’s canceled partnership influenced €1.2 billion off full-year sales? While Nike is pivoting to luxury and monopolizing professional sports, smaller companies are beating Goliath with a smoothed stone. We covered this in a recent member brief on the developing phenomenon.

Read More: The Euro DTCs Invade

But perhaps the greatest factor contributing to Nike’s decline is the changing consumer attitudes towards the company itself. In recent years, Nike has faced criticism for its labor practices and its impact on the environment. From using sweatshops in developing countries to producing its products while contributing to environmental degradation; this is no longer a fair tradeoff to the modern consumer. Enes Kanter Freedom, an NBA player, is the personification of this consumer shift:

He calls himself more than an athlete. He calls himself a human rights activist or freedom fighter, so I was just very disappointed in him choosing money and business over his morals, values, and principles. Obviously, he signed with a company like Nike that pretty much use slave labor and sweatshops in China, and he talks about all the problems that are happening around the world, but when it comes to one specific topic, China, he stays silent. And that is hypocrisy, so that’s why I want to expose it.

As such, this has led to a negative perception of the brand among consumers, who are becoming more conscious of the ethical, socio-political, and environmental impact of the products they purchase. Nike is attempting to address some of its issue. Recall the declining interest in star athletes? Pop star Billie Eilish has replaced the gridiron star.

Nike and American singer-songwriter Billie Eilish have come together to unveil the brand-new Air Force 1 Low sneaker, as part of their commitment to sustainability. 

Nike is still one of the largest and most recognizable brands in the world despite the changing world around it. It’s no coincidence that the upcoming biographical film about Phil Knight’s most important business decision is on the horizon.

Nike needs “Air” to remind consumers that sports matter, athletes matter, and that they are a more reliable bellwether than their pop cultural counterparts. It will premiere in 3,000 movie theater screens and then follow with streaming accessibility (on Amazon) in more than 240 countries.

The 1985 New York Times case study on Nike concluded with a sentiment that is still applicable, 38 years later: “The question now is whether management can keep Nike pointed in the right direction. Nike thinks it is ready to run again. But the race will be tougher this time.”

Por Web Smith | Editado por Hilary Milnes con arte de Alex Remy 

Resumen para miembros: La primera marca omniversal

Todos tenemos nuestra opinión. Para muchos, Michael Jordan es el mejor atleta de Nike. Para otros, Kobe Bean Bryant, Cristiano Ronaldo, Tiger Woods o Serena Williams. Para mí, es Steve Prefontaine. El primer atleta de Nike sentó las bases para décadas de pensamiento rebelde y contraintuitivo de la marca. El espíritu de Pre sigue vivo.

Nike es una parte minorista, una parte empresa de medios de comunicación y dos partes religión. La empresa ha sido objeto de una amplia cobertura en la biblioteca de 2PM, y con razón. Uno de nuestros primeros informes sobre Nike comenzó:

La historia cambia las cosas. La forma en que los consumidores ven las cosas hoy será diferente dentro de una década o dos. Según todos los indicios, Nike está trabajando para conseguir algunas cosas. La marca de Beaverton, Oregón, ha apostado por la iconografía, imágenes de personas que se hacen más grandes que la vida. Quizá sus decisiones de marketing no sean para toda la vida. Tal vez sean para la vida de nuestros hijos.

Su impacto cultural, su alcance mundial y su inventiva han contribuido a la evolución de una empresa independiente de zapatillas de correr a una marca omniversal.

Definir una marca omniversal: Nike navega sin problemas por el comercio minorista tradicional, el DTC y el metaverso a través de sus presencias física y digital. Promueve el comercio y el desarrollo de relaciones de forma integrada, elevando la marca en cada formato. Para lograrlo, Nike tenía que alcanzar cuatro objetivos distintos:

  • impacto momentos culturales
  • reforzar sus canales DTC
  • defender su propiedad intelectual mediante la reventa
  • establecer sus derechos de propiedad intelectual mediante proyectos adyacentes al metaverso

Momentos culturales impactantes

Como minorista de ropa: Nike está en una clase propia. Vanessa Friedman, del New York Times, escribió la reflexión sobre el impacto cultural de Nike. Su profunda inmersión abarcó los primeros días con Spike Lee, la alianza de 1985 con Michael Jordan (recuerde, sus zapatillas de novato fueron prohibidas inicialmente), su nueva era de influencia en la alta costura y su creciente valor de reventa en el mercado secundario. Sus competidores apenas alcanzan su estratosfera, aunque Adidas y Lululemon lo intentan. Se asienta en el Monte Rushmore de las marcas icónicas estadounidenses; su futuro es más brillante porque es la primera de su clase.

Tiene sus padres fundadores: Phil Knight, antiguo corredor de la Universidad de Oregón, y Bill Bowerman, su entrenador universitario, que vertió la famosa goma en la gofrera de su mujer para fabricar una nueva suela de correr. Tiene un himno: "Just Do It", introducido en 1988. Sobre todo, quizá, tiene un emblema.

Eso la sitúa más cerca en la historia de marcas como Coca-Cola, IBM, Disney y McDonald's que de cualquier nombre deportivo o incluso de moda. La única otra marca que ha dado el salto de forma tan eficaz y completa de producto básico a identidad en el último medio siglo es Apple(1).

Cuando una empresa como Nike, Disney o Apple realiza un movimiento estratégico, éste repercute en numerosos sectores. Cada una de ellas tiene la capacidad de existir en todos los sectores a la vez. Nike también quiere el mercado de la reventa: un sitio de reventa propiedad de Nike tiene el potencial de capturar un nuevo terreno que Nike ha cedido a plataformas como StockX.

Reforzar sus propios canales DTC

Nike ha demostrado que decide su propio destino cuando se trata de la distribución. ¿La única pieza del rompecabezas que Nike no supervisa actualmente? La reventa. El mercado de reventa de zapatillas se ha convertido en un robusto comercio secundario que marca las zapatillas más codiciadas de Internet. Nike representa la gran mayoría de las zapatillas vendidas en subasta en Sotheby's, según el NYT. Empresas como Stockx, Stadium Goods y otras han creado negocios enteros en torno a la venta de zapatillas Nike de segunda mano. Si Nike introdujera la reventa de zapatillas bajo su propio capó, perturbaría todo el ecosistema de las zapatillas. De TechCrunch:

En mayo de 2019, Nike se autodenominó empresa tecnológica con el desarrollo de Nike Fit, una solución de escaneo para encontrar el mejor ajuste de calzado de los usuarios de la app de Nike. El producto fue desarrollado por Intervex, una startup con sede en Tel Aviv.

Un mercado de reventa propiedad de Nike podría ser una extensión de la aplicación de Nike como un lugar para comprar y vender usado o deadstock, zapatillas Nike revendidas y ropa. Funcionalmente, sería más similar a GOAT o eBay que a Stadium Goods o StockX, que sólo permiten zapatillas sin estrenar.(3)

La autenticidad estaría garantizada con una aplicación de reventa propiedad de Nike. Las zapatillas falsas suelen acabar en el mercado de segunda mano, y quienes compran en Nike podrían estar seguros de estar comprando las auténticas. Nike también se beneficiaría de la afluencia de datos de clientes. Sabría más sobre los clientes más activos tanto en el mercado primario como en el secundario y cómo dirigirse a los consumidores que prefieren el primer mercado al segundo (o viceversa). También podrían controlar y orquestar mejor la demanda sin alienar a demasiados clientes. De Not Authenticated:

A finales del año pasado, Nike realizó movimientos más importantes al crear Nikeland y adquirir RTFKT, una plataforma digital de coleccionables. Así pues, las represalias contra StockX por vender NFT de zapatillas Nike eran inevitables.

La reventa podría formar parte de la popular aplicación SNKRS de Nike. También es posible conectar los esfuerzos metaversos de Nike (de los que hablaremos más adelante) y la reventa. Podemos imaginarnos a Nike recompensando a los poseedores de NFT con acceso a una subasta de reventa, por ejemplo. Si Nike lo consigue, sería la primera gran marca en cerrar completamente el círculo de su negocio de reventa, algo que otras empresas estarían interesadas en copiar. Nike es la primera marca omniversal.

Defender la propiedad intelectual

La competencia es feroz. Nike es conocida por hacer sentir su peso en áreas que desea poseer. Nike no es ajena a los pleitos: Actualmente está enzarzada en una batalla con Stockx por vender NFT de zapatillas Nike, así como Air Jordans falsificadas. También ha demandado a MSCHF por sus zapatillas Satan. También está en el lado receptor. Esta semana, Adidas ha demandado a Nike por las patentes de sus zapatillas adaptables y su conjunto de aplicaciones, que se han convertido en una estrategia definitoria de Nike. Es el típico tira y afloja entre Adidas y Nike, pero en el gran esquema, Adidas le está pisando los talones a Nike. De Business of Fashion:

Las aplicaciones se han convertido en herramientas importantes para que las marcas lleguen a unos clientes que viven cada vez más en sus teléfonos, y las aplicaciones de Adidas no han sido en general tan populares como las de Nike. Según la plataforma de inteligencia Apptopia, la principal aplicación minorista de Nike es actualmente la aplicación de compras número ocho en iOS de Apple en Estados Unidos. SNKRS ocupa el puesto 27 y la equivalente de Adidas, Confirmed, el 34.

En febrero, SNKRS también tenía más de 2,5 veces la cuota de mercado (frente a Adidas) según los usuarios activos mensuales confirmados entre las principales aplicaciones de zapatillas directas al consumidor.

Establecer derechos de propiedad intelectual en el metaverso

La demanda presentada por Nike describe las NFT como "parte del futuro del comercio". También advierte de que la floreciente tecnología es susceptible de que los infractores de marcas intenten obtener beneficios de derechos que no les pertenecen.

Como primer titán de la marca omniversal, Nike se toma muy en serio su incursión en el metaverso. Con RTFKT, el estudio digital que adquirió el año pasado, lanzó su primera zapatilla digital, que se agotó al instante y se ha convertido en un objeto de coleccionista en el mundo virtual. Nike ha estado trabajando para trasladar su influencia cultural al metaverso, registrando su nombre y logotipo y asociándose con Roblox para crear un mundo de marca, Nikeland. Ahora está reclamando su territorio, y otras marcas tendrán que ponerse al día.

La entrada de Nike en el metaverso es tan poderosa porque dispone de los medios para construir, probar y adquirir nuevas tecnologías. Ya cuenta con un equipo metaverso que le ayudará a definir su presencia en el mundo virtual. Las posibilidades son casi infinitas y esto representa una gran oportunidad de negocio para los minoristas que sigan el ejemplo de Nike. Recientemente, ha introducido las compras directas a través del avatar con RTFKT. No se trata sólo de una estrategia metaversa. De PSFK:

Un componente clave del enfoque de ventas de productos virtuales directo a los avatares de Nike es el lanzamiento de su propio metaverso, Nikeland. Alojado en la popular plataforma y metaverso Roblox, Nikeland ya ha recibido casi 7 millones de visitas directas de 224 países desde su lanzamiento. Nikeland es de acceso gratuito y está repleto de minijuegos. Se anima a los usuarios a equipar sus avatares con versiones digitales de las últimas novedades de Nike, y los compradores pueden adquirir Nike CryptoKick y skins directamente para sus avatares.(2)

La adopción de los principios de Web3 por parte de los minoristas tradicionales será gradual, pero Nike ha empezado a sentar una base omnicanal mediante el desarrollo de su negocio de venta directa al consumidor y la inversión en sus propias aplicaciones, marcas y propiedades intelectuales, al tiempo que reduce su dependencia de los canales minoristas tradicionales. Web3 y DTC son socios naturales y Nike será uno de los primeros minoristas importantes en iterar en torno a los principios de Web3. No es sólo una nueva fuente de ingresos: es comunidad y estatus. Es pertenencia.

A medida que el comercio electrónico se hace cada vez más presente en nuestras vidas, esa línea de demarcación entre el comercio electrónico y nuestras vidas físicas sigue difuminándose. A medida que las marcas adoptan estrategias metaversales, los productos físicos adquieren versiones digitales. En diciembre, escribimos sobre el movimiento CryptoKicks:

Nike se enorgullece de ser la primera en llegar a las nuevas innovaciones u oportunidades. Las pocas veces que no lo ha sido, lo ha comercializado tan bien que el consumidor ha acabado olvidando que otra marca se le había adelantado (Nike ha sido la dueña del mindshare en todo, desde el baloncesto de la NBA hasta el skateboarding profesional). El minorista no tendrá que preocuparse por quedar en segundo lugar en su camino hacia el metaverso.

El minorista parece comprender el valor de los bienes inmuebles digitales, el futuro de las comunidades virtuales y la importancia de invertir en los productos que hoy unen a ambos. Cuando el difunto Steve Prefontaine corría, lo hacía de forma salvaje e implacable. Corría por legado y por principios. Creó sus propias reglas y estableció que era el mejor en su oficio. Decía: "Tengo que salir fuerte y liderar desde el principio".

El mejor atleta de Nike trazó la estrategia de mucho más que los iconos deportivos que patrocinaba. La primera marca omniversal está disponible en cualquier lugar y en todas partes donde se lleven zapatillas.

Por el equipo de 2PM 

Memo: Brand Brady

The backdrop of the launch of the Brady Brand is a years-long shift in how Under Armour and its rivals are doing business. Adidas and Nike are expanding their definitions of brand equity while Under Armour is tightening the reigns. In February of 2020, 2PM wrote a deep dive into UA’s lack of focus:

There are a number of technical and financial concerns that Under Armour has ahead. With a new CEO in Patrik Frisk, there is an opportunity to course correct in several categories to include: product development, financial health, and brand management. The company that Kevin Plank launched from his mother’s basement has influenced 25 years of performance wear technologies but it’s no longer synonymous with the category that it established.

The message was a timely one. In October of 2020, UA announced a plan to cut back on wholesale partners (it exited 3,000 stores!), minimize discounts, and reduce its SKU count:

As it overhauls wholesale, the brand is also upping its focus on direct-to-consumer channels, where it plans to offer fewer promotions and discounts to fuel healthier margins.

This left the door open to the NFL’s greatest quarterback to go all-in on his own brand without infringing on his existing partnership with Under Armour, an idea that would not have worked as a Nike or Adidas athlete. After years defining himself as one of the best quarterbacks to ever play, Brady is now trying to lead another new brand to victory away from the gridiron. First, it was achieving notoriety for the TB12 supplement empire and now it is a focus on fashion retail. Tom Brady is redefining the playbook for the athlete-anchored brand with Brady, his new line of athletic and lifestyle apparel that debuts next week.

His launch strategy resembles that of a modern brand playbook: the digitally-native department store partnership of choice, the NIL deals, and the emphasis on direct-to-consumer and online storytelling.

In an interview with WWD, the Tampa Bay quarterback outlines how Brady will be sold at brady-brand.com and through Nordstrom. The collection will debut with 145 pieces in three categories, and will maintain a monthly drop schedule popularized by brands like Parade, Noah, Todd Snyder, and Drake’s. The plan is to steadily expand the brand into more upscale categories but for now, the focus is on athleisure and office casual.

Brady’s effort to build a DTC brand follows the USWMNT athletes and and Jimmy Butler’s BIGFACE brand. It’s important to note that all three brands used Shopify for their product launches. It is certainly a new era for athlete merchandising and brand development, with more control and ownership over his namesake brand. What’s notable is who he chose to partner with to create the brand and who he didn’t. Women’s Wear Daily outlined his partnership with Jens Grede, the brand creator behind Frame, Good American and Skims (the latter two of which have big-name influencer associations with Khloé and Kim Kardashian, respectively), who was introduced to Brady by longtime fashion executive Andrew Rosen. The line is designed by Public School co-founder Dao-Yi Chow, who it’s noted is not just a fashion insider but also a marathon runner. The group, collectively, is one that understands the function of sports apparel, the importance of style and how to build and launch modern consumer brands.

Missing from the project? Under Armour, which sponsors Brady. Now, you may understand why.

It’s a sorely missed opportunity for Under Armour, which had a failed launch into elevated sports and lifestyle attire with UAS and an earlier attempt to knock off brands like Ministry of Supply and Mizzen + Main. It dropped UAS in 2016 and lasted one season before the plug was pulled. Brady could have been UA’s next opportunity – the timing is better, and the face of the brand couldn’t be more influential in the sports world. Instead, UA was sidelined, which WWD addresses:

Brady opted to launch the brand with Grede rather than through his longtime sponsor Under Armour. The Baltimore-based sports company is now focusing nearly exclusively on performance sports apparel and its attempt to move into fashion in 2016 with the UAS collection, designed by Tim Coppens, met with limited success and was discontinued after one year. An Under Armour spokesperson said Brady continues to part of the UA family as an ambassador, as he has for 11 years, but said the Brady brand is his personal, off-the-field endeavor and separate from his partnership with the company.

Brady is setting up new rules for the options athletes have before them as they navigate the world of brand sponsorships, partnerships and merchandising. A macroeconomic shift in how his title sponsor does business (Under Armour is retreating from a fashion opportunity), the door is open for what may become a successful attempt to unseat Michael Jordan as the most astute figure in athlete retail (though it’s clearly too early to say). From the new site:

BRADY™ is the first technical apparel brand to apply two decades of pro sports level innovation and engineering to create a system of clothing that performs across every activity. With over 3 years in development, our fabrics and materials fuse natural elements with cutting-edge technology. Designed with the body in mind. Built to move, breathe, and sweat while you compete, live and recover.

Doesn’t this sound like a conflict of interest with Under Armour?

The renewed focus is working for Under Armour but at a cost of going all-in on the opportunities of the moment (though UA is now dabbling in NFTs). UA has chosen to set aside fashion, casual wear, DTC fitness, web3, and metaverse development – leaving Nike and Adidas as the go-to major retailers in those other areas. In fact, Nike is laying the groundwork for further expansion. The brand is currently going up against Lululemon in a patent spat over Mirror technology – demonstrating it’s fighting for ownership in a bigger Nike universe.

Brady seldom loses, these days. Which is why it’s even more incredible that Under Armour didn’t make an exception to their new strategy rules. It’s a decision that they the forefathers of technical fabrics may come to regret if the brand does what every other Brady pursuit seems to do: win.

Por Web Smith | Editado por Hilary Milnes | Arte de Alex Remy y Christina Williams