Member Brief: Leaky Margin

Brands are better off, not as direct sellers but as middlemen. Individual brands are better set up for success when they’re part of a well-run marketplace. So no, not direct-to-consumer. This is the theory that we will unpack here.

We’re at a fork in the road of the DTC era and what defined the previous era of brands of the past will likely not be carried much longer. A big part of that will come down to where brands choose to do business.

For many brands, sidestepping retailers has meant falling into patterns of reliance on demand-generation tools. Facebook and Google have become increasingly expensive sources of customer acquisition. It’s become one of the most nefarious habits for retailers: they eat margins. They also are unpredictable in terms of how far advertising spend may go and how well customers are being reached. And thanks to privacy updates from Apple, retailer transparency and efficacy is lacking more than ever. In a piece for Moguldom, the leaky margin problem is explained, citing founder and investor Vibhu Norby’s DTC doubts as proof of a reckoning:

“To run a DTC brand today you install 50 different apps and platforms. Leak away all of your margin and more to Facebook and Google,” [Norby] said. “If there is margin left you give it to your supply chain, which is a mess. Nobody has the cashflow to overcome seasonality. It’s been 10+ years now where we’ve been saying DTC is the future of brand building. Revenues are there but is it working for anybody? Are there real positive cashflows, profitability, equity value?” Norby tweeted.

The role that Facebook and Google played in the front offices of DTC brands is, at this point, well known and much discussed. But what actually happens now? Has the DTC model failed?

IPO prices and earnings announcements suggest that changes are in store. Fledgling brands will find themselves in even harder times in the midst of inflation and this recession. Retail sales rose a scant 1% in June in the US – a better performance than expected, but customer anxiety and worries over what’s to come could mean doom times for brands that have less capital, less customer awareness and less efficient engines of operation. It says little about the quality of their product and even less about how compelling the brands’ story might be. The last ten years (the DTC era) were flush with innovation, much of it needed. But some of it less so, in retail that invited more founders and even more funding to flood the industry. When the economy takes a turn, the party stops.

The most profitable path forward is likely the marketplace model.

What customers want is aggregation, selection, efficiency and competitive costs. When you trade off the margin that’s going into the pockets of Facebook and Google to lure customers to your brand’s standalone site (typically with a discount code) and put it instead toward a marketplace that can get your brand in front of more people while managing operations like fulfillment and shipping, things can change. It’s worked for decades in the analog world, long before retail emerged as a digital offering. Part of the reason why DTC brands avoided the shelves was to not sit alongside competitors but now, competitors are online as well. The reasons to avoid going all-in on marketplace strategies is diminishing by the month.

That could mean brands get closer with Amazon, which this week helped merchants boost sales via its Buy with Prime feature that promoted discounts across non-Amazon sellers’ sites during Prime Day. After 2PM reported that Shopify brands were getting swept into Prime Day through the new feature that puts Prime checkout on brand sites outside of the Amazon ecosystem, we got confirmation from several DTC brands that their sales did improve on those two days.

The ecosystem is so fragmented with platforms that have “more market share” than Amazon, an acknowledgment of the volume of separate storefronts stored on its servers. But it’s marketplaces like Amazon who should be more of a focus for brands. At least, that’s the opportunity ahead.

Those brands that shun Amazon may find the latest developments to its private-label strategy of interest. According to the Wall Street Journal, Amazon is drastically reducing the number of private-label brands on its marketplace. Private label was once a serious growth engine for Amazon, which thought it could pull data from its sellers and recreate products and sell them for better margins and better prices. It was the cost of doing business on the site, and it kept many brands far away. From WSJ:

Amazon’s private-label business, with 243,000 products across 45 different house brands as of 2020, has been a source of controversy because it competes with other sellers on its platform. The decision to scale back the house brands resulted partly from disappointing sales for many of the items, the people said. It also came as the retail-and-technology giant has faced criticism in recent years from lawmakers and others that it sometimes gives advantages to its own brands at the expense of products sold by other vendors on its site.

That many of Amazon’s private-label products failed is proof that brand equity still matters and this is what the class of brands built over this era of retail may be best at – differentiation by brand development. The pivot in Amazon’s sales strategy could leave a door open to more challenger brands to find success on the platform. They still have the choice, and Shopify has been a valuable partner in having brands’ own sites succeed on their own. But costs are mounting and margin is leaking. Amazon may be there to clean up the mess.

By Web Smith | Edited by Hilary Milnes | Art by Christina Williams and Alex Remy 

Members: Shopify and Buy With Prime

It will be interesting to see if Shopify realized any additional gross merchandising volume thanks to Amazon’s Prime Day.

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Memo: Full Stack Retail

While many seem to be counting eCommerce out, retailers and manufacturers are preparing for a future of increased direct-to-consumer volume and the logistics systems that support it.

Over the past two years, we have witnessed disruption after disruption. A shipping canal blocked, union employees standing down en masse, the U.S. postal service slowing to a halt, an international bridge protested by truckers, and a container ship on fire with 4,000 vehicles. Over this time period, freight forwarding has increased 500% in costs, retailers have begun to acquire trucking and container resources. Shopify has invested and divested in warehouse management, and Amazon has become the number one buyer of commercial real estate. Technology and retail brands must be more than that to survive the turbulent change that defines this era of retail.

The spread of the ideals of Full Stack Retail is well underway. It’s becoming a go-to strategy for enterprise retailers who want to manage costs, quality control, and , and American Eagle Outfitters is reaping the benefits of its operational investment. Over the span of three years, we have covered: AEO’s bold pivot, two expensive acquisitions, and its big bet on expanded competency.

Deep in the archives of the company’s transactional history, American Eagle Outfitters set the stage for how it would do business nearly 25 years later. From 1997:

American Eagle Outfitters integrates its merchandise production and sourcing. When American Eagle purchased Prophecy in May 1997, it gained the ability to monitor the production of its clothing and to improve its sourcing. The company hopes the end result will be lower costs and more timely delivery of clothing to its stores.

The 45 year old, Pittsburgh-based apparel company moved to mitigate supply chain disruptions and increased freight costs by purchasing two logistics companies, AirTerra (for an undisclosed sum) and Quiet Logistics for $350 million. While eCommerce companies like Amazon and Shopify have added to their empires by bringing warehousing and shipping operations in-house, it is still surprising for a mall retailer of AEO’s size. But the unexpected decision was fitting for unprecedented times. Here’s what we published in October 2021 on the idea:

The world’s supply chains were already in a precarious state before the pandemic. Now, after a period of extreme disruption, manufacturers can’t meet demand, resulting in a chain reaction of delays and out-of-stock products. While out-of-stock inventory can signal high demand and appeal for a brand, eventually the allure runs out when there’s no back supply. This is an all-too-common symptom of our current supply chain disruption that AEO is working to minimize. Similarly, companies like Walmart, Target and Amazon are investing in cargo ships to avoid delays facing other businesses.

The AEO pattern of acquisitions breaks a decades-long cycle of reducing costs by offshoring blue collar business functions.

We predicted that more retailers would take similar steps to insulate their supply chains, improve their own ability to respond to fluctuations in demand. Now, American Eagle wants to be part of that adoption. Nine months later, and a new Business of Fashion report revealed the outcome of American Eagle’s bet on logistics. It says it’s shipping orders faster and cheaper. The next move is to spin that success into a separate business, providing logistics services to retailers as they continue to face problems as a result of pandemic disruptions.

Let’s unpack exactly what American Eagle bought that it’s in position to facilitate a logistics outsourcing business to those companies who are not yet capable of insourcing like AEO has.

Quiet Logistics uses robotics to fulfill shipping orders for eCommerce brands by sourcing inventory as close to the customer as possible, cutting down on delivery windows as well as creating a more efficient supply chain.

AirTerra is a last-mile delivery service that helps smaller-volume retailers combine deliveries in order to get access to less expensive deliveries typically reserved for the biggest retail companies.

The majority of small retailers and challenger brands still lack the ability to manage either process at a high level and now, American Eagle operates it for its own operation. This particular set of skills separates the haves and the have-nots. This was exacerbated over the pandemic, as big-box retailers with deep pockets were able to work around slow ports and delays by chartering their own ships and planes to make deliveries on time and fulfill inventory shipments. In contrast, smaller retailers were left to fend for themselves as the cost of cargo dramatically rose over the months between March 2020 and January 2022. Freight management and interest has changed drastically as a result of the pandemic.

Now, Airbus – the world’s second largest aircraft manufacturer – says that it expects its global freighter fleet to climb to over 3,000 aircrafts by 2041, to account for eCommerce outpacing general cargo over the next two decades.

Over the next two decades, Airbus estimates, world air cargo will increase by 3.2% annually from the pre-crisis baseline of 2019.

But it puts the growth rate for e-commerce at 4.9%, far higher than the 2.7% of general cargo, and Airbus expects e-commerce to account for 25% of traffic in 2041 compared with the 2019 level of 17%.

American Eagle’s plan is to boost its own business by creating delivery solutions that can help challenger brands compete. From the Business of Fashion:

American Eagle wants to use that platform to build an “open marketplace” where retailers share warehouse space, delivery trucks and more. By pooling resources, small and mid-sized businesses would pay less for logistics, making them more competitive with giants like Amazon and Walmart.

Convincing rival retailers to cooperate won’t be easy — many have already invested in their own warehouses and delivery networks and won’t want to share. But new logistics models are gaining traction as e-commerce fulfilment costs rise: Shopify has its own end-to-end fulfilment platform that promises two-day delivery and fast returns, and FedEx partnered with Salesforce last year to offer a similar service.

This is a lighter-version of Full Stack Retail in action; American Eagle saw the writing on the wall. Front office retail and back office supply chain and logistics have become equally important as retail evolves to account for growing omnichannel complexities. Companies must deliver goods quickly and efficiently, keep products in stock and meet higher customer expectations. Companies like Amazon and Shopify have helped small and medium-sized retailers to compete with incumbent brands. Now, American Eagle Outfitters is now throwing its hat into the ring to facilitate its own platform. Chances are slim that it will become a competitor on the same level as two companies that have dedicated years to perfecting fulfillment, but it’s proof that there’s space in the field for more competition. The market no longer punishes companies that own vertical systems – it rewards them.

As long as American Eagle can do both without sacrificing its core product, it appears that it’s setting itself up for a superior system of front office and back office diversification: a new profit center (a win), a fortified supply chain (another win) and a competitive logistics strategy that will get stronger over time (another win). Look for leading retailers like Nike and Adidas to follow suit. Supply and logistics management are no longer Amazon and Walmart’s territory alone.

American Eagle Outfitters is in the shipping business. And the most innovative companies are preparing for a future of increased shipping volume buoyed by a retail future where digital sales and physical sales compliment one another without stressing the whole.

By Web Smith | Edited by Hilary Milnes | Art by Christina Williams and Alex Remy