第 279 号独立人士的吸引力

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While overall advertising revenues for print magazines continue to decrease, the real story is the increasing number of well-received independents. You know these magazines when you see them. They are wider and heavier than most, the paper is of higher quality, and the photography has a common theme throughout. In these publications, the magazines’ creative teams determines the artistic direction; it’s not the brands’ direction. This means a more natural feel with a greater connection to the reader.

These publications feel more like books than magazines and the price reflects that: they range between $10-25 per issue.

The savviest of these publishers are sidestepping the mistakes of previous era of print publishing. This new generation of print magazines aren’t merely media vehicles that are built to support a bloated advertising payroll. These magazines are brand statements and loyalty builders. But most importantly, they are the break from the digital economy that we all seem to be craving.

数据

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Magazine advertising will continue dropping (2018-2020).
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Major media estimates for 2018: magazines ranked third from bottom.
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Magazine advertising revenue is set to fall over the next two years.

Conventional publishing houses like Hearst and Conde Nast are increasing investments into digital properties as traditional print advertising falters. But independent publishers are taking a counter cultural approach to business. The Guardian just recently published a timely article on the independent publishing craze here:

Magazines espousing the counter-cultural idea of “slow journalism”, such as Ernest or Delayed Gratification (which was founded in 2011 to review news events “after the dust has settled”, has 5,000 subscribers and a print readership of 24,000), are funded by fairly expensive subscription charges. Ernest starts at £21.50 for two issues a year, while Delayed Gratification costs £36 for an annual subscription of four issues.

Whether they prioritise elegant looks or go for a samizdat-like underground style, they all share the appeal of the tactile experience of printed paper. “It is hard to say why people buy them. But the magazines are usually run and read by people who are enjoying the fact they have a voice and a place to go,” said Catterall. Read more.


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Issue No. 6: Gear Patrol.

Independent magazines have taken on a new role as home to more than a readership. These publications are cultivating consumer-driven communities away from the world wide web. Here are ten of the notables:

Monocle. $14. Winnipeg, Canada. The magazine launched on in 2007, By 2014, Tyler Brûlé sold a sizable minority stake in Monocle magazine to Nikkei Inc. It is reported that the company was valued at $115M at the time of the investment. Read more.

Darling. $20. Los Angeles, California. In 2009, the magazine’s Founder and Editor-in-Chief Sarah Dubbeldam and her husband Steve Dubbeldam created Darling. After starting off as a blog, the first print issue arrived in fall 2012. The magazine proudly embraces women of different ethnicities and body types. Read more.

Gear Patrol. $20. New York, New York. In 2014, founders Ben Bowers and Eric Yang launched the first magazine. GP is an award-winning digital, social and print publication that reaches nearly two million young, affluent men. The creative direction by Andrew Haynes has elevated the Gear Patrol brand to new levels. Read more.

Highsnobiety. $10. New York, New York. A publication covering forthcoming trends and news in fashion, art, music, and culture, all on one platform. Highsnobiety has steadily built a strong brand in the online fashion and lifestyle world. Today the blog and print magazine sit among the most visited global sources for inspiration in the areas of fashion, sneakers, music, art and lifestyle culture. Read more.

Uncrate. $15. Columbus, Ohio. A publisher for men, the bi-annual magazine features what to buy and how much it costs. Read more.

Cherry Bombe. $20. The magazine celebrates women and food through a biannual magazine. The book shares the stories of everyone from industry icons to notable newcomers, encouraging creativity in the kitchen. Read more.

Suitcase. $25. London, England. The magazine exists to change the way you travel: from where to go to how to pack. It’s for travel insiders, not tourists. Read more.

Raquet. $15. New York, New York. Racquet is a quarterly magazine that celebrates the art, ideas, style and culture that surround tennis. Read more.

Franchise. $20. New York, New York. A premium print publication dedicated to global basketball culture. The team consists of a group of players, artists and writers. The magazine documents the stories, characters and ideas that shape the game we love. Read more.

Here. $10. New York, New York. Away is a company on a mission and their latest project falls within this category. A well-produced, independent magazine that leans more on brand equity than advertising revenue. Steph Korey and Jen Rubio are the latest brand executives to turn their product into an escape for their readers. Read more.

Traditional publishing has been plagued by pay-for-play influence and an excessive approach to advertising sales and placements. Does anyone else ignore the first 20 pages of advertising? For brands that are looking to grow along with impassioned, independent audiences, this is the class of publishers that are truly making an impact for retailers.

Legacy magazine publishers focused on building a readership that advertisers would pay for. Independent publishers focus on building a product that consumers will pay for. Brand partnerships with independent publishers can reveal a smaller-yet-primed audience that can supplement performance marketing efforts. In the last two years, we’ve seen similar efforts launched by eCommerce brands: Airbnb, Hodinkee, and GOOP.

As traditional advertising and product placement continues to attract DNVB brands, you can expect to see more partnerships in this space. And more brand-funded magazines that mirror the quality of independent publishing.

点击此处阅读更多相关内容。

By Web Smith |About 2PM 

第 271 号现代奢华的更新

《社交网络》中有一个著名的场景,贾斯汀-汀布莱克扮演的肖恩-帕克向杰西-艾森伯格扮演的当代扎克伯格讲述了维多利亚的秘密重生的故事。在剧本中,正是肖恩-帕克解释了莱斯-韦克斯纳的天才和他与时俱进的能力,在以实际价值的一小部分收购了这家年收入 600 万美元的企业后,仅仅四年后就将其变成了价值 5 亿美元的品牌。在很短的时间内,该品牌的门店从 4 家增加到近 100 家。这对当时的小众品牌来说是一次历史性的转折。

由于韦克斯纳强调品牌对女性消费者的吸引力,实体内衣业务的基本面发生了变化。他摒弃了向男性销售内衣的亏损模式,取而代之的是以女性顾客为中心的模式。但更重要的是,他认识到,这种模式一直以来都应该如此。维多利亚的秘密(及其母公司:L Brands)之所以能发展成为今天价值 100 亿美元的公司,正是因为他的这一明智之举。但是,维多利亚的秘密品牌已经到了再次转变的时候了。值得考虑的是,沃尔玛最近的招聘和收购,让L Brands这艘最有价值的巨轮扭转了方向。

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维多利亚的秘密现在由首席执行官 Jan Singer(曾任 Spanx 首席执行官和耐克全球副总裁)领导,她认为,内衣行业的标志性企业之所以陷入困境,是因为企业重组、结束了著名的目录,以及退出了泳装类别。这些都是导致维多利亚的秘密陷入困境的原因,此外还有来自电子商务先行零售商的日益增长的压力。时尚商业

日益激烈的竞争促进了模特和产品的多样化。在线零售商 ThirdLove 已进入第五个年头,它让购物者回答一系列有关乳房的私密问题--在这九幅插图中,哪一幅符合你的乳房形状?该公司已从投资者那里筹集了 1360 万美元,预计今年的销售额将翻一番。Adore Me、True&Co. Everlane和 Everlane 等公司也在采取类似的做法。

它们的主要挑战者 Adore Me(21)成立于 2010 年,其明确的目标是挑战维多利亚的秘密,为消费者提供一个以网络为先导、具有包容性的选择,以替代内衣巨头维多利亚的秘密。在最新的Inc.5000 榜单显示,Adore Me 在 2014 至 2016 年间增长了 1400%,收入超过 1 亿美元。现在,Adore Me 正寻求向线下扩张,对于这家L Brands子公司来说,时机再好不过了。GlobalData 零售公司董事总经理尼尔-桑德斯(Neil Saunders)说:

与维多利亚的秘密相比,小众品牌可能只占很小的份额,但它们的创新方法意味着它们正在蚕食维多利亚的秘密的市场份额。

除了内衣品牌向维多利亚的秘密的领地扩张外,还有来自运动休闲市场、不断发展的美容市场以及追求舒适、功能和个性的消费者对内衣的排斥等方面的压力。与其继续与Adore Me(21)、THINX, Inc.(31)、Third Love(51) 或Savage x Fenty 等品牌竞争,维多利亚的秘密可以效仿沃尔玛,重新投资品牌、信息传递和端到端流程。

对维多利亚的秘密珍贵的零售地产进行战略性收购,可能正是这个拥有四十年历史的零售地产所需要的。该品牌拥有零售创新的历史。除了 Wexner 早期决定重塑购物体验外,维多利亚的秘密还是最早投资早期电子商务的品牌之一(1999 年)。在最近的一次零售业圆桌会议上,有人建议L Brands实施类似于 Lore 的收购,以监督品牌的电子商务和全渠道体验。

此外,会议还讨论了一个有趣的支点。维多利亚的秘密可以容纳美容、女性运动休闲和内衣品牌和内容。其明确的目标是将维多利亚的秘密重建为首屈一指的女性专卖店--一个品牌之家,其 VS 同名品牌被定位为店内最优质的产品。

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Lean Luxe 创始人保罗-蒙福德

在与Lean Luxe 的保罗-芒福德(Paul Munford)的电话会议上,他补充说:"不是每个品牌都值得永远存在。他还补充说,L Brands近期的业绩记录并不理想,因此不太可能进行这样的转折。具体而言,他列举了 2006 年斥资 7.1 亿美元收购 La Senza 的案例,该收购并未达到预期效果。芒福德认为,自从马克-洛尔(Marc Lore)担任沃尔玛电子商务首席执行官以来,没有迹象表明该零售集团能像沃尔玛那样快速、准确地运作。芒福德补充说:"洛尔加入沃尔玛后,沃尔玛并没有收购品牌和放弃品牌的负面记录。沃尔玛只是从零开始。因此,相对而言,维多利亚的秘密的任务似乎更艰巨。

虽然蒙福德和我对这家大名鼎鼎的L Brands子公司应该采取什么方式意见不一,但我们一致认为 VS 这个品牌早就应该进行现代奢侈品的更新换代了。在讨论谁会成为简-辛格的二把手时,最先出现的名字之一就是Glossier 的创始人艾米丽-魏斯。

By Web Smith |About 2PM

成员简报 1:线性商务

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什么是 "线性商务法则"?线性商务是 2PM 对不断发展的商务生态系统的理解的核心原则。它是对受众的优先排序。产品制造商通常将需求生成外包。那些走在时代前沿的品牌,会像重视实体产品的生产一样重视受众的增长。同样,遵循这些原则的数字媒体出版商会优先考虑有机和忠实受众的增长,而不是搜索引擎优化或 PPC 驱动的商品点击。

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