第 340 期:机动性碰撞课程

Steve Jobs believed that one of the few things that separated humans from high primates was our ability to build tools. In some cases, these tools mitigated the crippling inferiority of human mobility. Compared to some animals, humans possess lesser top end speed, endurance, and efficiency of movement. It’s our ability to engineer solutions that ultimately improves our collective mobility. Jobs assessed these shortcomings in a 1995 interview:

I read a study that measured the efficiency of locomotion for various species on the planet. The condor used the least energy to move a kilometer. And, humans came in with a rather unimpressive showing, about a third of the way down the list. It was not too proud a showing for the crown of creation.

Over the course of Jobs’ career, he predicted the future quite a few times. He foresaw what the inter connectivity of internet would do for humanity. He predicted the efficacy of the computer’s mouse, and the dawn of cloud computing, and the professional preference of the laptop computer. Jobs even understood that the diffusion of this technology would be so profound that ten year olds would own computers that are orders more powerful than the ones used by 1960’s-era NASA engineers. But it was perhaps his two distinct thoughts on figurative and literal mobility that may go on to define the next ten years of disruption.

Jobs indirectly recognized the inverse relationship between online retail and shopping centers:

People are going to stop going to a lot of stores. And they’re going to buy stuff over the web.

The second thought expounded on his obsession with human physical efficiency:

Somebody at Scientific American had the insight to test the efficiency of locomotion for a man on a bicycle. And, a man on a bicycle, a human on a bicycle, blew the condor away, completely off the top of the charts.

This line of thinking is the origin of Jobs’ commentary on the personal computer serving as a proverbial bicycle for the mind. According to Jobs, “What a computer is to me, is it’s the most remarkable tool we’ve ever come up with. It’s the equivalent of a bicycle for our minds. Walking is relatively slow and inefficient.” This remarkable thought may end up meaning something more than what Jobs meant at the time.

The advancement of mobile payment technology and the evolution of physical mobility are on a collision course. The diffusion of one technology may lead to the diminishing of the other. There is no greater example of the potential disruption than China’s stark contrast to the nature of American retail. Cashless consumer economies will have a profound effect on mobility. Paul Haswell of Pinsent Masons notes:

Many Chinese cities are now the closest we have to cashless consumer economies.

According to eMarketer’s Shelleen Shum: 79.3% of smartphone users in China will operate within a completely cashless economy. By comparison, the United States will see just 23% of smartphone users doing so by 2021. And Germany will have just 15%. Why is this significant? The move towards a cashless economy corresponds with a shift in mobility preferences. “The use of digital technologies—from smartphones and wearables to artificial intelligence and driverless cars—is rapidly transforming how city dwellers shop, travel, and live.Without a firm foundation in electronic payments, cities will not be able to fully capture their digital future, according to our analysis,” said Lou Celi, Head of  the Roubini ThoughtLab.

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Mobile payments are influencing a collision course. No. 1 market for mCommerce (payments) is China. Here is a quick comparison. Mobility:1a/ US cars per 1000: 8381b/ China’s cars per 1000: 179Retail locations:2a/ US sq. ft. / person: 23.5 2b/ China sq. ft. / person: 2.8

And here is the key question. If the United States is moving towards a cashless society driven by mobile wallets and smartphone-driven payments systems, will the shape of our economy begin to change with it? The data affirms. The shuttering of American retailers outpaced all of 2018 by April of 2019 according to data from Coresight Research. As of now, the correlation does not rely upon mobile payment tech. Rather, it’s driven by the growing adoption of online retail. However, online retail adoption in China is driven by mobile payment technologies. American adoption of such technologies will accelerate overall growth. The percentage of retail in the form of eCommerce will hockey stick when it does.

Smart Cities and Urban Mobility

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From Polymathic: The market opened to red, post Black Friday 2019.

There may not be a greater example of the potential clash between online retail and mobility than the city that is quietly known for its specialty retailers. In retail circles, Columbus is known as HQ City; the Central Ohio region is host to Abercrombie & Fitch (and Hollister), L Brands (Victoria’s Secret, Bath & Body Works, etc.), Express, Ascena Retail Group (Limited, Justice), DSW, Value City Furniture, and ties to American Eagle Outfitters. There isn’t a mall in the United States that isn’t influenced by this region’s businesses.

For Columbus, it’s a double-edged sword. The city’s working population is heavily influenced by this small group of very large employers. And these large employers have a symbiotic relationship with America’s inflated 23.5 square feet of retail real estate / person. In comparison, China has just 2.8 square feet of retail / person. Despite this lacking physical infrastructure, China passed the United States as the number one retail market in 2019. [1]

In 2015, Columbus, Ohio applied for a national grant for the Smart City Challenge, a national competition between a collective of technologically progressive cities.

Smart Columbus will help shift travel patterns. Even more, we want to shift people’s thought patterns and behavior. This means inspiring policy makers and influencing people’s preferences. We will partner with others to create programs, introduce new solutions and promote adoption. Once our city understands what’s possible, everybody should be able to get on board. This will be a gradual process over the coming decade. As a region with urban sprawl, we are committing to a new, improved ecosystem of solutions to move people and goods. [2]

A smart city is tasked with testing technological solutions and progressive policies to innovate mobility practices. As the winner of the first-ever Smart City Challenge, the city agreed to embrace the “reinvention of transportation to accelerate human progress.” The city would then serve as a standard bearer to other cities as they continue to evolve. In 2017, the city outwitted dozens of other top cities to include: Pittsburgh, San Francisco, Portland, Kansas City, Austin, and Denver. The result was an award of a combined $50 million grant from the US Department of Transportation and the Paul Allen Foundation.  This award would then be amplified by hundreds of millions in public-private partnership, generated by the cities own businesses and political partnerships.

Through the Smart City Challenge, the Department committed up to $40 million to one winning city. In response, cities leveraged an additional $500 million in private and public funding to help make their Smart City visions real. [3]

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United States: eCommerce as a share of retail

The data suggests that the advancement of eCommerce adoption would influence mass transit and ride sharing as primary means of urban travel. This same data would suggest that eCommerce would also spur economic development in harder to reach areas of the region. But it would have to get much worse before conditions improve. Some 92% of the citizens in China’s largest cities use Alipay or Wechat as their mobile wallets and sole means of transacting. In rural China, that number is 47%. In both cases, the primary means of retail is through eCommerce channels. In contrast, America will see just 12.4% of retail by eCommerce in 2020. For rural citizens and underbanked Americans, that number is significantly lower. The majority of eCommerce transactions are located in or near major metropolitan areas. This is relevant and will be explained shortly.

Black Friday 2019

In September of 2017, the proverbial floodgates opened. Amazon’s patent for one-click purchasing expired. With this, any and every online retailer could build or integrate payments solutions to promote better consumer experiences on desktop and mobile platforms. The improved experiences were especially noticeable on mobile operating systems, where dropped carts were commonly 60+%.

The end of Amazon’s hold on one-click ordering gives opportunities to large and small retailers to reap benefits they haven’t had before. Perhaps the most widespread benefit will come in the world of mobile commerce where there are high rates of cart and purchasing abandonment. […] The patent expiration will allow for widespread adoption of one-click purchasing, which will challenge the market to adapt quickly. There is an opportunity for major reconfiguration of social networks to challenge major e-commerce giants such as Amazon.  [4]

This coincided with the integration of tools like Apple Pay, Android Pay, and Shopify Pay, three solutions that would fuel mobile commerce in ways that were only previously seen in Chinese markets. Apple Pay recently crossed Paypal in volume of transactions. Amazon’s YoY growth was closely tied to the stickiness of similar technologies. An unnamed Shopify analyst suggested that with Shopify Pay, conversion rates were nearly identical to Amazon’s – an extraordinary improvement in performance between 2016 and 2019.

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United States: Projected revenue from mobile commerce ($B)

Over this most recent retail holiday, there was a contrast to observe. In 2PM’s most recent Executive Member Report, I explain the context behind the title “The Blackest Friday.” According to data pulled from Alibaba, Amazon, and Shopify – Black Friday was a success for the burgeoning eCommerce ecosystem and a disappointment to traditional retailers like Kohl’s, JCP, and Nordstrom. The holiday shed light on the growing divide between mobile adoption and the dependence on traditional retailers.

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It wasn’t deals that drove the BF, it was ease of purchase. Via Adobe Analytics: 1/ 39% of eCom: mobile2/ 61% of traffic: mobileAnd Shopify added 400k stores in 2019. The avg. BF $ / merchant dropped just 1.8%. Payments ease mitigated the lack of trust or perceived value.

Adobe, which now owns Magento, revealed data that communicates a permanent shift toward mobile traffic (61% mobile). Shopify’s data (69% mobile) reflected the same. Physical retail continued to slip.

The drop in Black Friday physical shopping mirrors a year-long share pullback in departments stores including Macy’s, Kohl’s and Foot Locker, all of which are down more than 25% this year. Meanwhile, Amazon, the dominant U.S. e-commerce retailer, has gained about 20% this year. [5]

For Shopify, the result was especially positive. On the heels of Apple Pay adoption and the growth of Shopify Pay,  the company added 400,000 new stores in 2019 while dropping just 1.8% in average store revenue on Black Friday. This tells a story. Despite the relative infancy of nearly 40% of the stores on the platform, new merchants were able to generate nearly enough in sales volume to match the per capita avg sales figure of the previous year’s merchants. This would indicate that the shift away from desktop and towards mobile payments mitigated issues of trust or early-stage brand equity concerns by lifting conversion rates. As mobile payment adoption increases, the divide between DTC-minded brands and traditional retailers will continue to grow. So where does this get us?

Conclusion: On Primates and Politics

If you’ve ever frequented Amazon Prime Now, you understand the value of two hours saved. In a matter of 90 seconds, you can click through on recently purchased grocery items to replenish your pantries. Then, in a matter of 60-90 minutes, those selections manifest. There are four packages at your door. When Steve Jobs suggested that software engineering would impact our mobility, it’s unlikely that he imagined the effect that mobile commerce would have on developed cities. Mobility isn’t just the efficiency, speed, or distance traveled. It’s what we can do with our time. Mobility is freedom.

When Columbus, Ohio was awarded $50 million to build the blueprint for a smart city, it’s unlikely that the city’s leaders understood the ties between commerce technology and physical mobility. If so, the heaviest investments would have been earmarked for commerce infrastructure:

  • improving shipping lanes by designating key routes for delivery vehicles and couriers
  • retrofitting struggling malls and shopping centers as fulfillment hubs
  • investing in the numerous local businesses by equipping them with the same types of technologies that enable the DTC mobile revolution
  • repurposing successful malls as meeting grounds, deemphasizing the emphasis on shopping
  • and laying the groundwork for a city with 60-80% fewer cars and 70-90% fewer shopping centers

America is over-retailed. And unfortunately, innovation in online retail will exacerbate this. For Columbus (and many other forward-thinking cities), this is a conflict of interest. As regions shift toward mobile commerce-forward models, old ways of retailing will subside. And given early data  – the numerous retailers that are headquartered in and around the city would be placed at existential risk.

It’s for this reason that Columbus serves a microcosm of traditional retail as a whole. The industry will have to choose between its past and its future, both of which are tied to shifts in mobility innovation.  Like Jobs said in 1995: “People are going to stop going to a lot of stores. And they’re going to buy stuff over the web.” This is beginning to reflect in public and private markets. What happens when we stop driving to stores? What happens when shopping centers no longer have sufficient demand? What happens when advancements in last-mile delivery becomes carbon negative? This is happening now.

The largest retail economy in the world is no longer the United States. But this will potentially change, as the United States closes the gap in mobile computing and payments adoption. China has 10% of the retail square footage and 79% fewer cars. This should give us pause. These numbers provide a bit of foresight into how this country must adapt to modern retail. Computers did become the bicycles for our minds. And now, advancements in mobile computing and payments are influencing physical mobility. The smartest cities will correct for these advancements before the markets correct it for them.

Research and Report by Web Smith | About 2PM 

第 339 期:为蒂姆-阿姆斯特朗辩护

DTX - DTC 日

蒂姆-阿姆斯特朗没有说错。 DTX Company中的 "DTX"是 "Direct to Everything "的缩写;该基金希望为这个在线零售时代带来众所周知的火花。蒂姆-阿姆斯特朗曾是Oath 公司的首席执行官,他在宣布成立最新企业时提出了以下使命宣言:

我们投资于以使命为导向的创始人,他们是直销品牌经济的领导者。我们通过创造体验、设计平台以及投资创始人和人才,为直销品牌经济建设基础设施。[1]

DTX 既是风险基金,也是 DTC 品牌的放大器。该基金已经投资了六个成熟的数字原生品牌,其投资理念主要是吸引有影响力的千禧一代 DTC 消费者。最后,我会再谈谈影响力的重要性。

11 月 6 日,他的DTX 公司联系了 120 个直接面向消费者的品牌,邀请它们加入 DTX,成为首届 "直接面向消费者星期五"(DTC Friday) 的官方合作伙伴。阿姆斯特朗加入了马云和杰夫-贝索斯的行列。在为期一天的活动中,DTX 的投资组合公司和阿姆斯特朗招募的另外 110 多家公司参加了活动。仅仅七天后,DTX 就宣布了 " 数字原生品牌 日",而在接下来的周五, Oath 的 前首席执行官在 CNBC 上阐述了他对数字原生品牌的愿景。

这实际上是为了在[FAANG]平台之外另辟蹊径。[......]我们希望将一切都转移到边缘。

这次零售活动的承诺非常简单:DTX 将向 1.5 亿潜在消费者做广告。 然而,对许多品牌合作伙伴来说,这并不奏效。Tortuga 背包公司的弗雷德-佩罗塔(Fred Perrotta)报告说:

截至太平洋时间上午 10 点,dtcfriday.com已经为我们带来了 14 位访客,几乎和Duck Duck Go 一样多。在比特币 "黑色星期五 "仍然活跃的时候,我们曾取得过更好的成绩。

Enquire是一家 SaaS 公司,由联合创始人兼首席执行官 Matt Bahr 领导,为数百家 Shopify 商店提供归因调查服务。Bahr 的平台与 DTX Company 合作的 120 个品牌中的 15 个合作。在 DTX Company 的努力下,这些品牌总共获得了 10 笔销售额。

我们分析了与我们合作的 DTC Friday 品牌的匿名调查回复和 UTM 参数数据。我们发现,在 DTC Friday 网站上突出显示的几个品牌中,只有不到一打的订单是由该活动促成的。根据我们与直接面向消费者的品牌合作的经验,这并不太令人惊讶。在这种短期时间窗口内,全面的媒体方式通常无法有效推动转化。

Nik Sharma 是《广告周刊》评选出的29 位 "有影响力的年轻品牌 "之一,他也与 DTX 选定的一些品牌合作。用他的话说"我没有任何品牌实现了激增"。不过,也有积极的反馈。据Andie 创始人梅兰妮-特拉维斯称:"[DTX 公司]要求我暂时不要透露任何数据,但我肯定会对早期的结果感到兴奋。根据谷歌趋势,Andie Swim 的搜索兴趣在 DTC 星期五创下了七天来的新低。

对于那些跟踪 DTX 公司发展轨迹的人来说,怀疑的声音一直不绝于耳。我曾提到过阿姆斯特朗团队的构成。在 29 名员工中,没有人曾是数字原生品牌的创始人。在这家肩负着彻底改变 DTC 客户获取方式重任的公司内部,几乎没有任何实践经验。他们几乎没有推动某些品牌获得超额估值和退出的直觉。

与此形成鲜明对比的是,为了让Away的竞争对手 Rimowa做好迎接DTC时代的准备,LVMH集团在其行李箱品牌 Raden 关闭后不久就聘请了前Raden创始人乔希-乌达什金(Josh Udashkin)。他的实践经验为 Rimowa 两年多来的战术决策提供了参考。正是因为缺乏实践经验,Lean Luxe 的 创始人保罗-蒙福德(Paul Munford)才会提出这样尖刻的评论:

据我所知,DTC 星期五的活动很失败。我感到震惊吗?不。当我听说它要来的时候,我就感到害怕,而且它似乎也不符合 DNVB 空间的精神。似乎有很多人自以为是地认为,只要宣布这是一个新的节日,它就会立即成为像DNVB黑色星期五那样的大型活动,这本身就是一个可怕的动机。

我明白,现在需要一个集中的市场空间。我相信 "星期五 DTC "就是要扮演这个角色。但执行起来似乎有些偏差,推出时似乎没有凝聚力,而且我从参与的人那里听到的反馈也不一致。

据我估计,它并没有失败。尽管一些品牌经营者的反馈不佳,但 "星期五 "的 DTC很可能达到了预期目的。蒂姆-阿姆斯特朗(Tim Armstrong)没有说错,他说早了。DTX 推出 2019 年 DTC 星期五的努力并不是为了优先考虑广告品牌。其目的是为Flowcode 做广告,据说这是几年前在美国被否定的二维码概念的先进重塑。每一个零售节日的电视广告、街头海报和影响者白名单活动的主角都不是泳装、技术面料男装、童装或休闲饮料。明星也不是创始人本身。

在每种情况下,每个广告上最显著的属性都是阿姆斯壮的 Flowcode - 一种将视觉营销与在线属性联系起来的更简便的方法。DTX 在广告投资方面是有区别的。虽然有些品牌几乎没有提升,但有证据表明,我可以断定一些品牌得到了皇家待遇。他们从中受益匪浅。在此背景下,安迪要求保持沉默更有意义。

阿姆斯特朗在 "真棒火箭 "上的估计花费:35,000 美元

阿姆斯特朗在安迪身上的估计花费:4.5 万美元

阿姆斯特朗在罗纳河上的估计花费:27,000 美元

阿姆斯特朗在Recess 上的估计花费:65,000 美元

流水码、QR 文化和在线零售渗透率

屏幕截图 2019-11-19 at 12.50.49 AM
移动钱包用户:美利坚合众国(2019年)

由于 Facebook 和谷歌等平台的存在,商业已经民主化,注意力也变得集中。Loop Returns 公司总裁兼首席运营官认为

随着注意力的分散,品牌将有机会与消费者建立 DTC 沟通渠道。DTX 和 Flowcode 看起来是这一领域的早期尝试。它可能不正确(很可能不正确),但这并不意味着他们错了。

值得一提的是,当蒂姆-阿姆斯特朗发表评论(如下)时,很多人对其进行了误读。

社交网络、搜索、YouTube 的分销结构及其广告形式使这些公司能够将产品目录中的所有内容直接呈现在消费者面前。支付领域现在虽然复杂,但即将变得更加容易。现在建立的系统让公司可以与消费者建立实时、直接的关系。

阿姆斯特朗对 FAANG 对媒体和商业的影响明显不屑一顾,这一点在他与 DTX 合作的每篇报道或文章中都有所体现。他的解决方案是合理的,只是为时尚早。随着 Apple Pay、Android Pay、Square Cash、Venmo 的采用,亚马逊 Go 的出现,以及其他数字优先解决方案的扩展,我们已经看到北美支付系统的巨大进步:但美国仍然落后于中国和其他亚洲国家。

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中国电子商务占零售业的比例

作为一项滞后指标,电子商务在美国零售总额中所占比例仍然很低,仅为 12%。相比之下,中国的这一数字接近 39%。这两个渗透率之间的主要差异可归结为移动钱包的采用。在中国,几乎每个公民都在日常生活中使用移动支付。在国内,微信支付阿里巴巴支付非常普遍,没有它们,游客很难进行交易。

支付宝上周推出了一个七步流程,要求游客在使用海外卡向预付卡充值之前,先向支付宝提交护照和签证信息。[2]

数据之所以重要,原因就在于此。对于营销人员来说,线下到线上的归因一直是个难题。在美国,广告牌、宣传册、邮件和实体活动的线下归因大多是人工操作的。品牌会发放调查问卷或要求提供归因数据。然而,在中国,二维码推动了大规模的销售和归因。[3]鉴于零售创新从中国流向美国,我们可以清楚地看到,当阿姆斯特朗谈到支付 "变得更容易 "时,他预计会采用移动钱包和简化支付系统。为什么会这样?这些系统的普及与二维码在中国的大规模使用有关。

本世纪初,大多数中国人仍然随身携带现金,大城市以外的地区很少使用信用卡。但随着人们收入的增加,他们显然需要一种不用携带大量现金的新支付方式。[3]

按照大多数人的标准,"DTC 星期五 "可能不是一个成功的销售日,但它却是一种有效的方式,让流行品牌参与营销这一几年前还被美国人嘲笑的概念。

在美国,阿姆斯特朗想象中的未来存在障碍。在美国,零售业过剩。人均实体店数量超过地球上任何其他地方。房地产开发行业如此盛行,以至于实体店成了电子商务的最大障碍。当我们可以在大多数实体店使用借记卡时,我们不太可能采用移动支付。

因此,在此期间,数字原生品牌最好利用传统零售商的方法来实现规模化。但阿姆斯特朗的假设最终会被证明是正确的。时间会证明,DTX 公司是否能为消费者行为的转变立下汗马功劳。 创新扩散曲线对阿姆斯特朗并不有利。能否说服精明的千禧一代改变他们的购物行为,将取决于 DTX 及其 DTC 忠实拥趸,如Andie、Recess、Rockets of Awesome 和 Rhone。否则,阿姆斯特朗的Flowcode可能会成为Webvan与其他创新者的DoorDash或UberEats的对比。时间和采用速度将决定谁能获得销售额。这可能是阿姆斯特朗也无法解决的一个归因问题。

韦伯-史密斯的研究与报告 |关于 2PM

第 338 期UpWest 和 Hygge

Hygge-2PM

A publicly-traded retailer launched a DTC brand. This is a deep dive into their reasoning, the build, and their internal expectations. 

Middle-class retail is at an impasse. Since the beginning of 2019, there have been 19 bankruptcies to include Forever 21, Gymboree, Charlotte Russe, Payless ShoeSource, Diesel, and Destination Maternity. And there are another eight retailers at risk to include: J.C. Penney, Neiman Marcus, J. Crew, and Hudson’s Bay. In Gilded Age 2.0, I explain that our current retail era signals a casualty of the middle class consumer; a class that once emerged in response to the industrial and financial booms of the late 19th century and the governmental reforms of the mid-20th century.

With a flailing gig economy, stagnant wages, and rising personal debts, 2019 presents a break from the mid-century momentum that defined the 20th century. We are beginning to hear faint echoes of an earlier time of boom or bust and feast or famine. Rather than appealing to pure luxury consumers or fast fashion-loving millennials, the “long middle: erroneously remains the bullseye of the target. Retailers have been slow to optimize for a new market of coveted consumers.

In a recent report by Business of Fashion proclaimed that America still doesn’t have an answer to LVMH. They explain:

Spoilt for choice, consumers are less interested in mid-priced products available at scale: they want dangerously affordable fast fashion or pure luxury. (And preferably at a discount.) It’s harder for consumers to see the value in something that is not cheap but not that expensive, either. Especially if it’s not utterly unique. That’s a problem for Tapestry in particular, which deals exclusively in accessible luxury. [1]

Against the backdrop of abundant choice and a bifurcating market, Ohio retailer Express launched a new brand. Express is currently trading at a $265 million market cap with north of $2b in sales. The cost of that revenue is extraordinarily high compared to healthier retailers. Trailing twelve months, Ralph Lauren Corporation earned north of $6.5 billion with a $2.45 billion cost of revenue.

In contrast, Express earned (TTM) north of $2.1 billion with a $1.5 billion cost of revenue. A 25% gross profit margin heading into a crucial holiday season, the Columbus-based retailer hopes to use the DTC initiative to improve their long-term outlook. The effort has been met with a mix of pessimism and optimism. 

Pierre Kim of Away

For years, retailers have been criticized for not evolving quickly enough to meet the demands of their customers, so what do they have to lose with this new strategy? Their core labels may be faltering, but they still have brand equity. Why not use it to experiment and launch new businesses?  [2]

Paul Munford of Lean Luxe

There’s baggage associated with being under a legacy retailer’s umbrella—it decreases the value of the brand to the savvy consumer,” he said. “However, execution will always ultimately be the key here. Spinoffs need to feel like their own entity, as opposed to a sub-brand of the legacy retailer. [2]

There are merits to both arguments. And a little bit of digging provided more clarity for this report. Under the umbrella of Les Wexner’s Limited Brands, Express launched as women’s clothier “Limited Express” in 1980 Chicago. Led by CEO Michael Weiss, the brand expanded to eight stores in 1981 and by 1986, Express began a test for menswear in 16 of its 250 stores. The men’s line spun out as Structure in 1989.

I remember the brand very clearly. As a twelve year old in 1995, the halls of my middle school were split between the haves and the have nots. For the ones with, shirts by Polo and Structure were the daily wears and all I could remember is the sensation of having neither.

4
Remember this?

The advancements that Express made during that 20 year run are astounding to think about. In 2001, Express became a dual gender brand – a pivot that Madewell is currently attempting to execute. Structure “sold” to Express, or at least that’s how I remembered it. Because immediately, I became a fan of Express. In actuality, the brand was owned by the same holding company. It funneled its mens business to a brand that provided more opportunity. L Brands then, quietly, sold the mark to Sears in 2003. The Structure brand was never heard from again.

Express is no longer owned by L Brands, one of the most prolific builders of retail brands in history. It was sold to Golden Gate Capital Partners, a private equity firm with $15b in assets under management. And then, in May of 2010, the retailer went public.

Demographic vs. Psychographic | Part Two 

In 2016, Express made its first play for the direct-to-consumer era by acquiring a minority stake in HOMAGE, the Columbus Ohio retailer led by founder Ryan Vesler. It’s a genuine brand, one where the founder-product fit is as valuable as its product-market fit. The minority investment with vintage t-shirt company meant that Express bought a new audience of a key demographic: the college-aged millennial.

Homage President Jason Block said in an email that Express will consult with the company on an ongoing basis and the investment will allow Homage to expand both its digital and brick-and-mortar presence. [3]

Aside from investing in a growing company,  Express gained the rights to include a limited selection of HOMAGE products in store. The investment was intended to bolster foot traffic while, potentially, benefitting from the long-term flip – if and when the HOMAGE brand grew with the help of Express. It’s unclear whether or not this initiative was successful for either of the brands. The company is currently trading below the price it maintained during the period that Express began its partnership with HOMAGE. The publicly-traded retailer’s missteps over the past two years were due, in part, to a number of macroeconomic shifts.  The launch of UpWest represents a strategy shift of its own.

In Psychographics in Focus, I explain the difference between a demographic and psychographic. Consumer psychology involves the interest in lifestyle, behavior, and habit. It’s an encompassing measure that considers our idiosyncrasies, our temperament, and even our subtle personality traits. These are the variables that influence our behavior as consumers. Psychographic segmentation is the analysis of a consumer cohort’s lifestyle with the intent to create a detailed profile. [4]

Taking a community-building approach, UpWest plans to connect with new customers through experiential events, including a regional tour across the US that features the UpWest Cabin, a mobile pop-up exhibit featuring relaxation-focused experiences like yoga and meditation classes. Slated stops include Columbus, Chicago, Nashville, Denver and Austin.  [2]

From the typeface, to the story-telling, to the merchandising – the UpWest brand is designed to attract fans of the digitally-native industry. Rather than a specific demographic, Express pursued an interest (DTC) and is building a brand atop of that engaged audience.

DTC As A Psychographic

推特上的网络史密斯

DTC, 2012: a tech stack strategy. DTC, 2016: a logistics strategy. DTC, 2020: a brand strategy.

In a span of three days, I received multiple emails and texts from contacts close to the launch of UpWest. Kaleigh Moore, Forbes writer and 2PM collaborator had a story in queue by then. In the Lean Luxe Slack, it was a topic of conversation. Rather than building in-house with Express’ existing engineering group, UpWest contracted Shopify agency BVAccel to handle the design and development work. This was a nod to several of the most successful digitally native brands in the space to include Untuckit, Cubcoats, Chubbies, and Rebecca Minkoff. 

Comparison-Upwest

The site’s architecture communicates a desire to be mentioned in the DTC conversation, this includes UpWest’s partnership with Klaviyo and its new-age loyalty program. It would appear that UpWest chose to focus on the DTC psychographic for the sake of earned media and brand positioning. As far as the nuts and bolts are concerned, the site’s build communicates that the desired target demographic is millennial-aged women. On day zero, the brand has an explicit purpose: to provide comfort for body, mind, & spirit. The clothes, are priced similar in design and price to Marine Layer – its next closest competitor.

Identifying Waves: Importing Hygge to America

In the past year, this concept of Scandinavian coziness has made inroads with an international audience. [5]

Imagine a whiteboard in one of Express’ suburban Columbus boardrooms; the word “hygge” would have been at the center of it in big and bold lettering. You can picture the brand’s chief comfort officer (and Express’ SVP of Strategic Initiatives) standing in the corner of the room, jamming as Cody’s It’s Christmas plays on the room’s four Sonos speakers. The brand wants you to feel a feeling. Analysts agree. Emily Singer, founder of the DTC newsletter “Chips and Dip” had this to say:

There’s something very boring about it. Maybe that’s intentional. This line feels a little too on the nose: ‘Welcome to curated comfort. For those who are seeking peace and calm in a stressful world.’ Brands tap into emotional states, but it’s rarely laid out so explicitly.

It’s this perceived boredom that is viewed as an understated luxury in American culture. To the Danes, hygge is free of economic status. The culture’s entire focus is on practicality, movement, wellness, and mindfulness. It’s this underlying culture that Express hopes to import with the help of some obvious visual cues from well-known DTC retailers.

The UpWest typeface is nearly identical to the typeface of Outdoor Voices and Marine Layer’s. Ironically, both retailers have references to Scandinavian hygge throughout their brand messaging. But for UpWest, there’s no understatement. Every message is turned to maximum volume. Like the primary header of Express.com: UpWest’s primary menu is a throwback to “Limited Express”, a retailer for women-first and men-second. There are elements of luxury abound. Upwest’s blog features new-age terms like: nourish, mindfulness, tranquility, and sanctuary. The traveling pop-up is a “cabin.” These are all symbols of wealthier millennials with time and resources to spare. As is the concept of philanthropy and sustainability (though UpWest sells products that are made with synthetics).

It starts with our cozy apparel, home and wellness products. We want to surround you with calm and give you balance. But it’s not just the tangible things. It’s also about slowing down. Diving deeper. And giving back.

Not to be outdone, UpWest wants consumers to help them donate $1 million to the Mental Health Association. The Express-borne retailer plays the entire DTC hand of cards. This report began with a simple statement: middle-class retail is at an impasse. To the average consumer, this DTC play is akin to Structure being launched as Express Men. Like a sheep, the seventeen year old me bought from Express as soon as my adolescent wallet would allow. The mechanics are similar here. Express is attracting an existing audience (the DTC psychographic) and using it to invigorate a brand that is plateauing.

结论

The UpWest bet is that the retailer can earn the business of the upwardly mobile DTC audience by engineering a product-market fit. One with heavy branding, ideal-alignment, and market messaging. This is one of the first upmarket attempts that we’ve seen from a specialty retailer. It’s one that deserves praise. Their management team engineered a brand with contemporary pricing and luxury messaging – void of pricing promotions (for now). They’ve acknowledged that the data shows a middle-class at an impasse. They have the supply chain, the logistics, the distribution, and a snapshot of a brand. But do the executives at Express truly understand what makes the top DTC brands work? That remains the question that could move the market.

Time will tell if Express can duplicate the brand architecting of their L Brands era – a time defined by face-less brands, clever signage, billboards, and foot traffic. My guess is that Express will find an audience that is more sophisticated and critical than the young adults of the 80’s, 90’s, and 2000’s. Messaging, distribution, and customer acquisition methods will evolve with this realization. And if that’s the case, their hygge may be tested for quite some time.

Research and Report by Web Smith | About 2PM