第 295 期不对称战争

真相介于两者之间。要了解整个行业正在发生的变化,需要细致入微的观察和不偏不倚的视角,因为事物的变化是以光速进行的。经济学人》最近的一篇文章描绘了一幅 DTC 行业的美丽图景。整个行业比新晋零售企业家想象的要困难得多。有两种情况可能是真实的:(1)呆板的老品牌由职业经理人经营,他们不懂灵活和创新;(2)大多数 DTC 品牌会失败,因为它们是由前管理顾问或刚毕业的 MBA 经营的,他们不重视品牌、关系和社区的力量。


非对称战争: 由小型、简单的武装团体对拥有现代高科技武器的国家发动突然袭击的战争。


直接面向消费者的品牌很难扩大规模。通常的假设是,你可以把钱花在设计、制造、包装上,然后再收购。花、花、花、花。于是,3000 万美元、5000 万美元甚至 1 亿美元的风险投资层出不穷。问题是,虽然有能力的创业者可以外包设计、制造、包装,甚至收购,但现有品牌是建立在关系、一致性、价值和信任的基础上的。传统的 DtC 收购渠道无法立即促进信任或价值。这需要大量的工作和一致性。这还需要线下互动,我们正在实时关注这一现象,因为 "未来五年将有近 850 家门店开业"。[福布斯]

行业巨头需要时间开始担心改变游戏规则的新来者的到来;进入他们行业的门槛很高。但现在,老牌企业却停滞不前。根据咨询公司尼尔森(Nielsen)的数据,以最大的25家食品饮料公司为例,它们创造了美国食品饮料类45%的销售额,但在2011年至2015年期间,仅推动了行业总增长的3%(见图)。前 100 强以下的 20,000 家公司组成的长尾企业创造了全部增长的一半。

经济学家微商品牌的增长威胁到 CPG 巨头

如果你问阳狮集团(Publicis Groupe)创新执行副总裁 汤姆-古德温(Tom Goodwin)有关直接面向消费者(DtC)品牌的问题,他会给你一记耳光。公平地说,为宝洁公司辩护是他的主要职责之一。宝洁对他的雇主非常重要,以至于他们刚刚宣布在辛辛那提设立一个办事处,为宝洁的广告战略提供支持。在他于10月22日撰写的一篇文章中,有这样一段酣畅淋漓的文字:

DNVB 可能只是昙花一现,它们没有护城河,品牌易变,一旦褪色就可能消亡。

营销周刊

他并没有完全错。就在几天前,我发表了一篇关于DTC 品牌防御性的文章,其中我写到了幸存的品牌是如何建立必要的护城河,使自己不至于昙花一现的。在这个消费网络时代,有两类人在 "你 "和 "我 "之间徘徊。 你:富裕、聪明、忙碌、有原则的消费者。我们交流了许多相同的内容,却得出了两个截然不同的结论:他认为 DNVB 不能持久,而我认为 DNVB 可以持久。我们的专业经验影响了我们的观点。五年前:布鲁克斯兄弟公司(Brooks Brothers)前采购与规划副总裁杰夫-布利(Jeff Blee)对一家处于早期阶段的DtC衬衫制造商发表了评论:

他并不担心这个新来者,因为他所说的 "新款 "衬衫总有市场。"任何竞争都是好消息"

纽约时报

这个标志性的男装品牌后来采取了 约瑟夫-A-班克折扣策略(四件衬衫 200 美元),Blee 先生现在经营着一家 DtC 服装初创公司。这场新旧之间的战争并不局限于包装消费品、箱包、礼服衬衫或毛皮鞋。它无处不在。在《时尚商业》 Business of Fashion, 无署名)最近发表的一篇文章中,他们讨论了L Brands 旗下维多利亚的秘密(Victoria's Secret)的困境,以及如何 "自救"。

然而,维多利亚的秘密给人的感觉仍然像是被困在了时光胶囊里:在那个时代,公开将男性的目光投射在女性的身体上是可以的,甚至是被期待的;在那个时代,带气泵的不舒服的俯卧撑文胸被视为创新;在那个时代,人们仍然在商场购物。这一季的节目就像是在向自己致敬。在更换布景的间隙,背景中播放着档案片段。

他们的文章以 2PM 早前的一份报告为基础,我们在该报告中阐述了这家传奇的内衣企业所面临的日益激烈的竞争。我们在这里看到的是经营成本更低的新品牌的冲击,这些品牌正吸引着人们的感官和钱包,使人们开始转向其他地方。 L Brands(维多利亚的秘密的母公司)、宝洁(吉列的母公司)和布鲁克斯兄弟Brooks Brothers)等公司不仅在价格、便利性和选择等方面展开竞争,而且还在文化(尺寸包容性、"粉红税 "以及工作地点和方式的转变)方面展开竞争。

维多利亚的秘密首席营销官、70 岁的埃德-拉泽克(Ed Razek)说:"[2000 年]我们曾试图为大尺码做一个电视特辑。没有人对此感兴趣,现在也是如此。 要在多条战线上作战,就需要在一个灵活的组织内有明智的领导者。这些领导者还必须对消费者和进步感同身受。毋庸置疑,拉泽克的言论是不着边际和冷漠的。目前,一些顶级品牌正在通过设计和营销更具包容性的产品,与 L Brands 子公司展开竞争。在第 271 期中,我写到维多利亚的秘密需要更新:

除了内衣品牌向维多利亚的秘密的领地扩张外,还有来自运动休闲市场、不断发展的美容市场以及追求舒适、功能和个性的消费者对内衣的排斥等方面的压力。与其继续与Adore Me(21)、THINX, Inc.(31)、Third Love(51) 或Savage x Fenty 等品牌竞争,维多利亚的秘密可以效仿沃尔玛,重新投资品牌、信息传递和端到端流程。

有关维多利亚的秘密最新时装秀的新闻,从各方面来看都是一场惨败。但解决之道就在眼前。他们应该观察一下传统的 CPG 行业。在那里,创新通常包括:年轻、收购和灵活。宝洁公司正在这样做。这家 CPG 企业集团最近进行了重组,组建了更小、更灵活的团队,而且这家辛辛那提公司对收购持开放态度。

随着 DTC 时代的发展,越来越多的品牌在实体零售商中展开竞争,与几十年来一直存在的 CPG、服装和鞋类公司分庭抗礼。每个细分市场都有几十个品牌在争夺你的钱。 汤姆-古德温(Tom Goodwin)对许多品牌的评价是正确的,这些品牌筹集了巨额资金,通过付费媒体获取客户。

但这并不是整个直接面向消费者行业的特点。随着挑战者品牌的媒体购买变得更加困难,有更多的直接面向消费者的品牌倒闭。随着成百上千的新品牌缩减到十几个比较强势的品牌,竞争将变得更加对称和可预测。宝洁将通过采用挑战者的许多做法(以及通过收购获得品牌知识产权)来摆脱新发现的竞争,因为许多挑战者开始在熟悉的领域展开竞争。但是,独立的挑战者品牌始终会有一席之地。

韦伯-史密斯的报告

Member Brief: Headless Commerce

Screen Shot 2018-11-09 at 2.22.25 PM

There is quiet content startup in Nashville, Tennessee that opened my eyes to the possibility before content creators. Founded in 2016 and launched in September 2018 by Alecia Vimala, Alecia.com has quietly influenced how content is monetized. And the core of the company is built on a relatively newer principle, to most, called headless commerce. Alecia is a company that films and streams original content, letting you shop what you see. The app and the site offer a seamless content and commerce presentation for the viewer.

本会员简报专为以下人士设计 执行委员为了方便加入,您可以点击下面的链接,获取数百份报告、我们的 DTC 权力清单和其他工具,帮助您做出高水平的决策。

在此加入

第 294 期品牌必须黑客文化

brands

NEW YORK — In just a few short years, Fab went from a $1 billion valuation to a $15 million fire sale.

Across eCommerce, success is more unpredictable than ever. When it comes to culture-driven products, things that worked in the past often do not work in the future – the sheer number of Avengers sequels notwithstanding. But despite the inherent unpredictability of our tastes and the complex way they interact, venture capital still places a heavy bet on pattern recognition. These patterns: be it a proprietary product, low-cost customer acquisition tactics, or the ability to reach scale fast – are hardly reliable predictors of success.

For example, Harry’s proprietary product is manufactured in its German factory. Insourcing manufacturing was a great initial way to differentiate their razors from Gillette’s low-quality but expensive razors. But, superior product quality has since become table stakes in the shaving market, with a number of startups all offering the same key features. Five years and $375 million venture dollars later, Harry’s has only 5% market share in the traditional retail sales market. It is a distant third in the online manual shave market. Not until Target provided its massive distribution muscle, did Harry’s growth begin to tilt upwards. To stay competitive in this mass market, Harry’s now needs to worry about the shelf space and brand marketing – just like the incumbent. 

Dollar Shave Club, with 21% of the online market share, was not profitable when Unilever bought it in 2016. Its media-beloved Youtube ad was viewed more than 25 million times since 2012. Social media was responsible for Dollar Shave Club’s awareness but that form of media also undid its staying power. The main lesson: awareness doesn’t equal conversion and fast user growth doesn’t mean profitability.

To hack growth, startups have to – first – hack culture.

In addition to the usual signals, venture capitalists should look into whether or not a company has roots in trend or subculture. A subculture is made up of people who are more informed and passionate about a topic than anyone else. They are likely to be beta-testers, source material, and advocates for a new product or service. Cycling brand Rapha started from cycling obsessives. Apparel brand Patagonia started from the subculture of social responsibility. A deep subculture entrenchment ensures that a company can maintain and enhance its difference as it scales. Long-term defensibility has more to do with whether a company can believably connect with a community through the shared things. This takes precedence over a proprietary product or its acquisition channels.

Success also has to do with what Japanese call kuuki wo yomu or, reading the atmosphere. In the October 2013 article titled Yes, Real Men Drink Beer and Use Skin Moisturizer, Bloomberg magazine quotes Mintel’s data on the 5-year rise in the global sales of personal-care merchandise geared to men. Harry’s was founded earlier that year, Dollar Shave Club two years prior. Both of them capitalized on the shift in the culture of modern masculinity, but neither of them invented it.

The shift was already happening. As sociologist Duncan Watts notes in his research on social influence: if a society is ready to embrace a trend, almost anyone can start one. But if it isn’t then almost no one can. The success of Harry’s or Dollar Shave Club didn’t have to do much with a spiffy video or on the German factory-produced razors. It had more to do with how susceptible men already were to the idea of grooming and how easily persuaded they were to invest in it.

Social influence is often mistaken for disruption.

The dynamics of how trends spread are shifting from (1) brands, media, and retailers pushing ideas to (2) mass market exploitation to the (3) networks of niches and taste communities. Both startups and VCs have to consider social processes that ultimately define success of their inventions.

In addition to engineering products and services, startups then need to engineer social influence in their market. The fastest way is to piggyback on the already existing social influence, and amplify it through go-to-market strategy that emphasizes social activity among a company’s initial following. This social activity then serves an ad for a product or service aimed at the mass audience. Luggage brand Away’s initial community of travelers – and their stories – became an ad for its products; rides of the Rapha’s Cycling Clubs are the ad for Rapha’s gear.

Social activity in a market accumulates social capital. How a social currency is going to be created and exchanged is the inherent part of business plan. It’s a business’ core value unit. And whether a company has the potential to build and trade in social currency should become part of venture capitalist’s evaluative criteria. Beauty brand Glossier’s currency is beauty preferences of its fans. Glossier’s currency is so strong that this brand is now creating the entire marketplace around it. Social currency builds scale, defensibility, and network effects.

To prevent social currency from being devalued due to the reverse network effects, companies need to maintain and grow their distinction as they scale. The best way to do this is through product and service diversification. A brand is an umbrella for a portfolio of unique products. Streetwear brand Supreme mastered the art of distinction, with a large part of its audience owning unique brand products. Product diversification increases the number of bets, reduces risk, preserves social currency, and organizes a company around the inherent unpredictability of people’s tastes.

The ultimate irony of the popular disruption narratives is that they venerate a deeply anti-social attitude. They celebrate an outsider and a renegade who “moves fast and breaks things.” But without social influence that creates the susceptible mood and allows the new products, services, and ideas to spread, there is no “disruption.” Instead of applauding the world’s outliers, we should direct our attention to the society that makes them thrive. There should be a sociologist among engineers.

Read the No. 294 curation here.

By Ana Andjelic| Edited by Web Smith.  About Ana: named to Forbes CMO Next list, Ana was most recently the Chief Brand Officer of Rebecca Minkoff. She has earned her doctorate degree in sociology and worked at the world’s top advertising agencies. She’s also a frequently published author, public speaker and writer. She lives in New York City.